How to Read a Fabric Specification Chart?

A fabric specification chart can look like a wall of numbers. But once you know what each column means, you’ll spec fabric faster and with more confidence.

Here’s how to read ours — column by column.

Trade Name
This is the fabric’s common industry name. Number Ducks (#12, #10, #8, etc.) follow a simple rule: the higher the number, the lighter the weight. Naught Ducks (1/0, 2/0) break the pattern — they’re the heaviest of all.

Warp Yarn / Fill Yarn
Warp yarns run lengthwise. Fill yarns run crosswise. The “s” notation (7s, 10s, 16s) refers to “single” yarns — lower numbers mean thicker, heavier yarns. 7s (7 single yarn) is thicker than a 16s yarn. “O.E” stands for Open End, a spinning method that produces consistent, cost-effective yarns using shorter staple length fibers.

Warp Ply / Fill Ply
Ply means how many yarns are twisted together into one thread. More plies = more strength. Number Ducks use 2–6 plies in both directions. Single Fill ducks use single yarns (no plies) — hence the name.

Count (W × F)
Thread count: warp threads per inch × fill threads per inch. Fabric is placed under a magnifying glass and the number of threads per inch in the warp and the fill directions are counted. Higher thread counts generally mean a tighter, smoother fabric. A 10.10 oz army duck has 54×42 (96 threads/sq.inch), but a #10 Duck has 41 × 27  (68 threads/sq.inch). The army duck is naturally a smoother and a tighter weave than a #10 duck. 

Oz/Sq.yd & GSM
Fabric weight. Oz/Sq.yd is the US standard (ounces per square yard). GSM (grams per square meter) is the metric equivalent. This is usually the first thing buyers check — it tells you how heavy and dense the fabric is. Another funny way that is prevalent with the US mills is Yards per pound (Lb) of fabric. There is a way to convert from one unit to the other. Tomato or Tomahto – your call!

Tensile Strength (ASTM D5034)
How much force (in pounds-force, Lbf) is needed to break the fabric — measured separately for warp and fill. Higher numbers = stronger fabric. This matters for load-bearing applications like tool bags, tarps, and belting.

Tear Strength (ASTM D2261)
How much force is needed to continue tearing the fabric once a tear has started. Important for anything that faces punctures, sharp edges, or rough handling.

Stock Widths / Supply Capability
“Stock Widths” are what we keep in inventory. “Supply Capability” is the full range we can source. Widths are in inches. We stock from 26″ up to 144″ depending on the grade.

Putting It All Together
Say you’re making tool bags and need a fabric that won’t rip under load. You’d look for high tensile and tear numbers, heavier weight, and plied construction — something like #8 Duck (18.1 oz, 255×183 Lbf tensile). If you’re making promotional totes, you’d go lighter — 7 oz or 10 oz Single Fill keeps costs down while still looking and feeling like real canvas.

A note on variability: Loom settings, yarn quality, temperature, and humidity can all affect final fabric properties. Always test before production. Our specs are measured to ASTM standards by USA-accredited labs — but every production run has slight variation.

View the full chart: [Fabric Specification Chart] — all grades, all specs, side-by-side.

Questions? Call +1-843-647-6363 or [request a quote].